We awoke at 7 as before and it didn't take us too long to get down for breakfast. Senan was a little slower than the rest of us and there wasn't much breakfast left for him. It was Monday morning and the hostel was noticeably quite. We prepared our lunch as before. The good news about today's walk was that we were starting at about 900 ft instead of the usual 300-400 feet because the hostel is right on the path to Helvellyn. My plan was to go up to Red Tarn and then up Swirral Edge and back down Striding Edge. Talking to two walkers in the hostel I decided we should reverse the order - up Striding Edge and down Swirral Edge - safer and better was the advice. The weather forecast was for clouds at the top - otherwise pretty good. As we climbed out of the valley we could feel the heat and although Helvellyn was hidden from view in the early stages of the walk - Catstycam was clear. It was a steep climb out of the valley - but we made good ground. We had a number of stops - but they were beginning to find their mountain legs!
As the ground flattened out and we approached Red Tarn the mist came down. It looked that it might be down for the day. The Tarn looked dark and menacing and we couldn't see to the far side. We contoured back in the mist to "the hole in the wall" which is the top of the ridge a little below the start of Striding Edge. There we met lots of walkers. Helvellyn is the most often climbed mountain in England. The light down into the valley below was magical. Peering through the mist to the sunlight aging on the green valley below was like something out of Lord of the Rings.
Sunlight and Mist, Uploaded by M+MD.
We were resigning ourselves to just the odd glimpse down from Striding Edge as we move on the the start of the famous ridge walk. Then suddenly the mist cleared and the sun shone brightly. The sky was very very blue. We had a clear view across the start of Striding Edge; over to Helvellyn; across to Swirral Edge and down to Red Tarn now bright and clear below us. The perfect conditions for the splendid walk ahead.
The mist is lifting, Uploaded by M+MD.
Striding Edge has two paths. The first is a real path which winds either side of the rocky ridge. This path is generally just 3 or 4 metres below the ridge. It offers great views down both sides of the ridge. The second path is not really a path but a well worn set of boot marks all along the very top of the ridge. It's the nutters route across Striding Edge and is truly a great walk.
The first point is that vertigo sufferers must turn back now! It takes just a little courage to step out on the first broad crag that is the start of Striding Edge. Its wide and pretty flat and the path is just two metres below. But you are on Top of the World; the King of the Castle with the magic of the Lake District stretching out below you. From there all across the too of the ridge it is just like scrambling over the rocks at the end of Tara Cove taking the cliff path to Ballymoney. Sometimes you have to return to the path to get to the next crag. The others joined me for some of this and then towards the end I advised them to go around for the last section. It was longer but much more difficult to get down from at the end. But slowly and carefully I lowered myself down and back to the path.
Senan had raced on ahead on the path and was now waiting for us at the other side of Striding Edge. Now the last 500 feet of Helvellyn had to be tackled. It's a sharp pull up - some of it at the start of the climb over loose scree. But each step was a couple of feet up and that's always encouraging. I found a path to the side. The mist was settling back over the mountain, but there was no doubting our direction - the only way was up! After about 20 minutes I was at the shelter. Its just off the top. The mist was now down, but the place was busy with walkers eating there lunch. After about 10 minutes the others arrived - I had definitely found the shortest route. Lunch was eaten in the mist and was very welcome. Senan managed to attract a pair of sheep - they seemed to be quite interested in our lunch.
Well fed and rested we headed along the top of Helvellyn in the mist. We needed to be careful to find the correct exit. We came to a cairn and a turn in the ridge - that looked like the way down - though it looked difficult and challenging in the mist. There was a group in front of us - they were very slow and tentative. Senan started down first - but wasn't that happy and came back. "Is there no other way?"; Well there was another way - but it was a much longer walk. I nearly gave in, but Seany said we should give it a try and I went on to see what could be seen. The first part of the path was a scramble over rocks. Keeping your bum close to the ground was the key to success. Once we got past that initial buttress it was a simple path all the way down.
Hellvellyn from Catstycam, Uploaded by M+MD.
The path down to Red Tarn was easy to follow. But for some of us the small drag up to Catstycam (2950 ft) was too tempting to ignore. It one of the higher hills to escape my attention over the last 35 years probably because I never took the Swirral Edge route before. Catstycam was certainly an easy addition. We had a brief rest at the top before setting off down to rejoin Seany and Sheila. Soon we were back on the route down from Red Tarn again retracing our steps from this morning. The sun had returned as we descented down Swirral Edge and now there was real heat in the day.
When we were most of the way down we stopped by a rushing stream and took a long leisurely break. Our work was done; all objectives met; it was a beautiful summer's day; the scenery was stunning. Sheila took off her boots and had a foot-massage in the mini waterfall in the stream. We all followed suit. It was soothing and refreshing.
We finished the walk back to the hostel and collected our togs and headed down to Ullswater for another swim. This time we agreed that we would all go in together. Senan had the camera ready and we all line up, ready, set, go. We all dived into the water. Christopher was ready and set but didn't go until later! But he did get in and swim.
Ready, Uploaded by M+MD.
Set, Uploaded by M+MD.
Go, Uploaded by M+MD.
Its not that cold - really, Uploaded by M+MD.
It was not as cold as yesterday - though it was still bracing!
We dried off and headed to Brotherswater Inn again. This time we got a table by the huge picture windows. It was a beautiful evening and the sunsetting on the hills was very pretty. I could see Fairfield in the distance - but there were very dramatic views of Dove Crag and on to Red Pike both of which are still not on my list yet. There are a total of 214 "Wainwrights" ie summits covered in the seven Wainwright guides. I have completed over 70 of these hills - just one third of the way. I'm not sure that I would ever get them all done. There is a tendency to do the same peaks over and over.
There are favourites like Striding Edge and Helvellyn which are hard to ignore when you only get a couple of days a year to visit. But there are many ridges which just seem to escape all the time. Sergeant Man; Glaramara; Allen Crag for example always seem to be on the other side of the valley! There are also quite a few smaller hills that never seem to be quite worth the effort!
I always plan a few routes for next time each time I return from the lakes. I will try to get 4 or 5 new hills in next year. I will aim to get to 107 wainwrights anyway - at least more than half way!! Maybe I should also plan a longer walk which would attempt to fill in the gaps. If I could climb highest half of every book that would be a significant target.
We called into the Travellers Rest on the way home for just one more before getting home just before eleven.
To-morrow we will pack and leave pretty promptly. No sandwich making required!
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