Küssnachter Klausjagen

Shephard & sheep whip Originally uploaded by M+MD.

Tonight in Kussnacht am Rigi - near Luzern, Switzerland, the Klausjagen (chasing of St Nikolaus) takes place. The town will be in complete darkness. The locals dress in the traditional shephards smock. They will crack bullwhips in the dark: CRACK CRACK like gun fire.

Bishop Mitres Originally uploaded by M+MD.

Then come the Bishops Mitres. These are enormous structures carried on the head with designs cut out and covered with coloured paper. Inside are candles, so the whole effect is like walking stained glass giant bishops’ mitres. There are well over 100 of these dancing and spinning down the streets.

The dancing mitres are followed by St Nikalaus, with his assistants (Schmutzils) dressed in black. Next comes 180 trumpeters who play the haunting "Klausenmelodie".

All in pitch darkness. Then come the 900 cowbell ringers. Each carry the enormous cowbells that they swing in time and produce an ominous monotonous rhythm.Bringing up the rear are the cow horn blowers. They blast in unison SHORT SHORT LOOOONG...SHORT SHORT LOOOONG Then the party starts - the beer drinking is interrupted from time to time by trains of bell-ringing shephards. It goes on to the early hours, most un-swiss like!

I've been there twice - the video on this page gives some sense of what its like - but you really have to be there to feel the whole tingling, medieval Christmas sensation.